Shore Professional Services, LLC, DBA/ Advantage Lawn Care & Landscaping

Concrete flatwork covers everything flat and horizontal: garage and shop slabs, patios, sidewalks, equipment pads and aprons. Most of what determines whether a slab lasts happens before the truck arrives. The subgrade is compacted, a gravel base of about four inches is placed and compacted, forms are set to grade with slope away from the building, and reinforcement, typically wire mesh or #3 or #4 rebar on chairs, is placed. Residential slabs are usually four inches thick and poured at 3,000 to 4,000 psi; anything that will see trucks or equipment goes to five or six inches. Control joints are cut at intervals of roughly two to three times the slab thickness in feet, so about every eight to twelve feet on a four-inch slab, because concrete will crack somewhere and joints tell it where. Concrete needs about seven days before foot traffic and twenty-eight to reach design strength.

Decorative concrete is standard flatwork with a finish applied while it is wet or after it cures: stamped patterns that mimic stone, slate or wood plank, integral or broadcast color, acid or water-based stains, exposed aggregate, and polymer overlays that resurface an existing slab. The finish adds a lot of labor in a short window. On a stamped pour the crew has to place, color, stamp and detail the whole slab before it sets, so crew size and weather matter more than on plain concrete. Because the surface is the product, the base, thickness, reinforcement and joint layout still have to be right, and joints should be planned into the pattern rather than cut across it afterward. Sealer is what keeps color and finish looking new; most decorative surfaces need resealing every two to three years, and stamped surfaces can be slippery when wet unless a grit additive is used.

Driveway contractors build the surface between the road and the house, from a gravel farm lane to a poured concrete approach, and the base under the surface decides how long any of them last. A typical driveway is excavated to remove topsoil, graded with a crown or cross slope so water runs off, and built up with four to eight inches of compacted crushed stone before the top layer goes on. Where the driveway crosses a roadside ditch it needs a culvert sized by the county, and the connection to a public road is regulated by the road authority. Gravel is the least expensive and needs regrading every year or two; asphalt costs more and needs sealing; concrete costs the most up front and lasts longest if the base and joints are done right.

Excavation contractors dig and move earth for foundations, basements, utilities, pools and site cuts. Most residential jobs run on a mini or mid-size excavator paired with a skid steer and a dump truck; larger cuts bring in a dozer or scraper. The price depends less on the size of the hole than on what is in the ground: clay, ledge rock, high groundwater and buried utilities all slow the machine down and change the hauling math. Before the bucket touches dirt the site needs an 811 utility locate, and any trench deeper than five feet needs a protective system under OSHA rules.

Land clearing removes trees, brush, stumps and roots so a parcel can be built on, farmed, fenced or simply seen. The method drives the price. A forestry mulcher grinds standing brush and small trees into chips in a single pass and leaves the ground surface intact; a dozer with a root rake pushes everything into piles for burning or hauling; an excavator with a thumb pulls stumps and stacks logs. Grubbing, which means pulling stumps and roots, is a separate step from clearing and is required anywhere a foundation, driveway or septic field will go. Selective clearing around trees you want to keep takes more hand work and more time than clearing a lot wall to wall.

Paving preparation is the earthwork under asphalt or concrete: cutting the subgrade to plan, undercutting and replacing soft spots, placing and compacting aggregate base in lifts, and proof rolling with a loaded truck to find anything that pumps before the paving crew shows up. Asphalt is only as good as what is under it, and most premature cracking and rutting traces back to a thin or poorly compacted base rather than the mix. Base thickness runs from about four to six inches of crushed stone under a residential driveway to eight to twelve inches or more under a commercial lot or a road, compacted to 95 percent or better of maximum density, with the surface held to within a fraction of an inch of grade so the asphalt lift is uniform. Prep contractors often also handle the curb subgrade, drainage structures and the connection to existing pavement.

Pond and water management contractors excavate and shape ponds, build or repair the embankment dams that hold them, and cut the ditches, swales and channels that move water across a property. A pond that holds water starts with the soil: it needs a clay core or a compacted clay liner, or a synthetic liner where the ground is sandy or rocky, and the dam is built in compacted lifts with a keyway cut into the original ground. Every pond also needs a way to pass the big storm, usually a principal spillway pipe plus an emergency spillway cut in natural ground, sized for the watershed above it. USDA NRCS publishes free design standards for farm ponds that most contractors follow. Cleanouts, which remove years of silt and reshape banks, are common on older ponds and are priced by the cubic yard removed and where that muck can be spread.