Russ & Co

Excavation contractors dig and move earth for foundations, basements, utilities, pools and site cuts. Most residential jobs run on a mini or mid-size excavator paired with a skid steer and a dump truck; larger cuts bring in a dozer or scraper. The price depends less on the size of the hole than on what is in the ground: clay, ledge rock, high groundwater and buried utilities all slow the machine down and change the hauling math. Before the bucket touches dirt the site needs an 811 utility locate, and any trench deeper than five feet needs a protective system under OSHA rules.

Foundation contractors build the part of the structure that carries everything above it into the ground: spread footings below frost depth, stem walls or basement walls, monolithic and slab-on-grade foundations, and pier or grade beam systems where soils are poor. The work follows the stamped plans and the geotechnical report, and it is inspected at fixed points, usually the open footing trench with rebar in place before the pour, then again before the slab and before backfill. Frost depth sets the footing bottom, from about twelve inches in the Gulf states to four feet or more across the northern tier. Waterproofing or dampproofing, a footing drain and free-draining backfill are what keep a basement dry, and they are cheapest to do right while the wall is still exposed.

Grading is the shaping of ground to a designed elevation and slope. Rough grading moves the bulk of the earth to bring a site close to plan; finish grading dials in the last few inches so a pad is level and a yard sheds water. The number that matters is fall: building codes call for the ground to drop at least six inches in the first ten feet away from a foundation, and a lawn or gravel area needs roughly a two percent slope to drain. Crews do this with a dozer, a skid steer with a grading bar, or a motor grader on larger lots, checked against a laser or GPS grade stake rather than by eye.

Pond and water management contractors excavate and shape ponds, build or repair the embankment dams that hold them, and cut the ditches, swales and channels that move water across a property. A pond that holds water starts with the soil: it needs a clay core or a compacted clay liner, or a synthetic liner where the ground is sandy or rocky, and the dam is built in compacted lifts with a keyway cut into the original ground. Every pond also needs a way to pass the big storm, usually a principal spillway pipe plus an emergency spillway cut in natural ground, sized for the watershed above it. USDA NRCS publishes free design standards for farm ponds that most contractors follow. Cleanouts, which remove years of silt and reshape banks, are common on older ponds and are priced by the cubic yard removed and where that muck can be spread.