Prime Excavating Inc.

Concrete cutting and removal contractors saw, drill, break and haul concrete on everything from a cracked patio to a doorway through a foundation wall. The tools are specialized: walk-behind slab saws with diamond blades for flat cuts, track-mounted wall saws for straight openings, core drills for round penetrations for pipe and conduit, and hydraulic breakers or robotic demolition machines for bulk removal. Wet cutting controls silica dust, which OSHA regulates tightly, but produces slurry that has to be contained and disposed of rather than washed into a storm drain. Because a saw cannot see rebar, post-tension cables, conduit or radiant tubing inside the slab, a GPR scan before cutting is standard practice on any structural or unknown concrete, and cutting a post-tension slab without one can be dangerous.

Demolition contractors take down houses, garages, commercial buildings and foundations, then sort and haul what is left. The teardown itself is the fast part; most of the schedule is the paperwork that has to happen first. Gas, electric and water are disconnected and capped at the main, an asbestos survey is completed by a licensed inspector and any friable material is abated before the excavator swings, and the demolition permit is posted. A residential house typically comes down in one to two days with a 30 to 40 ton excavator; hauling and backfilling the hole can take a few more. Selective demolition, such as removing a wing or gutting an interior for a remodel, is priced by labor hours because it is done with hand tools and small machines around what stays.

Erosion and sediment control keeps disturbed soil on the site and out of storm drains, ditches and neighboring property while construction is under way and until vegetation is established. Under the federal Clean Water Act, any project that disturbs one acre or more needs coverage under a construction stormwater permit and a written plan, commonly called a SWPPP, and many cities set lower thresholds. The physical work is simple and unglamorous: silt fence trenched in along the downhill perimeter, a stone construction entrance so trucks do not track mud onto the road, protection around every inlet, check dams in ditches, and erosion control blanket or hydroseed on slopes. What most owners underestimate is the maintenance: controls have to be inspected after every rain of a quarter inch or more and repaired, and inspectors write violations for torn fence and full silt traps, not for missing paperwork.

Excavation contractors dig and move earth for foundations, basements, utilities, pools and site cuts. Most residential jobs run on a mini or mid-size excavator paired with a skid steer and a dump truck; larger cuts bring in a dozer or scraper. The price depends less on the size of the hole than on what is in the ground: clay, ledge rock, high groundwater and buried utilities all slow the machine down and change the hauling math. Before the bucket touches dirt the site needs an 811 utility locate, and any trench deeper than five feet needs a protective system under OSHA rules.

Foundation contractors build the part of the structure that carries everything above it into the ground: spread footings below frost depth, stem walls or basement walls, monolithic and slab-on-grade foundations, and pier or grade beam systems where soils are poor. The work follows the stamped plans and the geotechnical report, and it is inspected at fixed points, usually the open footing trench with rebar in place before the pour, then again before the slab and before backfill. Frost depth sets the footing bottom, from about twelve inches in the Gulf states to four feet or more across the northern tier. Waterproofing or dampproofing, a footing drain and free-draining backfill are what keep a basement dry, and they are cheapest to do right while the wall is still exposed.

Grading is the shaping of ground to a designed elevation and slope. Rough grading moves the bulk of the earth to bring a site close to plan; finish grading dials in the last few inches so a pad is level and a yard sheds water. The number that matters is fall: building codes call for the ground to drop at least six inches in the first ten feet away from a foundation, and a lawn or gravel area needs roughly a two percent slope to drain. Crews do this with a dozer, a skid steer with a grading bar, or a motor grader on larger lots, checked against a laser or GPS grade stake rather than by eye.

Paving preparation is the earthwork under asphalt or concrete: cutting the subgrade to plan, undercutting and replacing soft spots, placing and compacting aggregate base in lifts, and proof rolling with a loaded truck to find anything that pumps before the paving crew shows up. Asphalt is only as good as what is under it, and most premature cracking and rutting traces back to a thin or poorly compacted base rather than the mix. Base thickness runs from about four to six inches of crushed stone under a residential driveway to eight to twelve inches or more under a commercial lot or a road, compacted to 95 percent or better of maximum density, with the surface held to within a fraction of an inch of grade so the asphalt lift is uniform. Prep contractors often also handle the curb subgrade, drainage structures and the connection to existing pavement.

Retaining walls hold back soil where a grade change is too steep to slope, and they fail for one reason far more than any other: water. A wall that lasts has a compacted crushed-stone base, a perforated drain pipe at the heel, clean gravel backfill behind the wall face, and geogrid layers tied into the backfill on anything tall. Segmental concrete block is the most common residential system and can be built by a landscape contractor up to about four feet; above that, or wherever a driveway, slope or structure sits above the wall, an engineer's design is required by most codes and the wall becomes structural work. Poured concrete and reinforced masonry walls are used for tall cuts and tight sites, boulder walls for rural and natural-look projects, and pressure-treated timber for budget walls with a shorter life.

Site preparation is the package of work that turns a lot into a place a builder can start. On a typical job that means clearing vegetation, stripping and stockpiling topsoil, cutting or filling to the pad elevation, compacting fill in lifts, cutting in a temporary driveway, and installing the silt fence and gravel entrance the stormwater inspector expects to see. The scope shifts with the ground: a flat suburban infill lot may take two days, while a sloped wooded parcel with poor soil can run weeks and involve undercutting and replacing unsuitable material. Site prep contractors typically coordinate with the surveyor who sets the corners and the geotechnical engineer who signs off on compaction.

Trenching and underground utility contractors open the ground for pipe and conduit, bed and backfill it, and put the surface back. What looks like a straight line on a plan is governed by a few hard numbers: 811 locates before any digging, a minimum cover depth that varies by utility (commonly 18 to 24 inches for electric and gas service, and below the frost line for water), and OSHA's requirement that any trench five feet or deeper have a protective system such as a trench box, shoring or a sloped wall, with a competent person on site. Bedding material under the pipe, compaction of the backfill in lifts and tracer wire on non-metallic pipe are the details that separate a line that lasts fifty years from one that settles and cracks the driveway above it.