Morris Excavation | Oregon Coast Excavation

Driveway contractors build the surface between the road and the house, from a gravel farm lane to a poured concrete approach, and the base under the surface decides how long any of them last. A typical driveway is excavated to remove topsoil, graded with a crown or cross slope so water runs off, and built up with four to eight inches of compacted crushed stone before the top layer goes on. Where the driveway crosses a roadside ditch it needs a culvert sized by the county, and the connection to a public road is regulated by the road authority. Gravel is the least expensive and needs regrading every year or two; asphalt costs more and needs sealing; concrete costs the most up front and lasts longest if the base and joints are done right.

Excavation contractors dig and move earth for foundations, basements, utilities, pools and site cuts. Most residential jobs run on a mini or mid-size excavator paired with a skid steer and a dump truck; larger cuts bring in a dozer or scraper. The price depends less on the size of the hole than on what is in the ground: clay, ledge rock, high groundwater and buried utilities all slow the machine down and change the hauling math. Before the bucket touches dirt the site needs an 811 utility locate, and any trench deeper than five feet needs a protective system under OSHA rules.

Hauling contractors move bulk material to and from job sites: delivering gravel, sand, topsoil and fill, and removing excavated spoil, concrete and demolition debris. Pricing is built around truck size and cycle time. A tandem dump truck carries roughly 10 to 14 cubic yards, a tri-axle 15 to 18, and a belly dump or end dump trailer over 20; the driver's rate covers loading, travel, dumping and any wait time at either end. Distance to the pit or landfill is often the biggest variable, and tipping fees for debris are usually passed through separately. Contractors who also run a loader or excavator can load their own trucks, which matters when nothing on site is available to fill them.

Paving preparation is the earthwork under asphalt or concrete: cutting the subgrade to plan, undercutting and replacing soft spots, placing and compacting aggregate base in lifts, and proof rolling with a loaded truck to find anything that pumps before the paving crew shows up. Asphalt is only as good as what is under it, and most premature cracking and rutting traces back to a thin or poorly compacted base rather than the mix. Base thickness runs from about four to six inches of crushed stone under a residential driveway to eight to twelve inches or more under a commercial lot or a road, compacted to 95 percent or better of maximum density, with the surface held to within a fraction of an inch of grade so the asphalt lift is uniform. Prep contractors often also handle the curb subgrade, drainage structures and the connection to existing pavement.

Retaining walls hold back soil where a grade change is too steep to slope, and they fail for one reason far more than any other: water. A wall that lasts has a compacted crushed-stone base, a perforated drain pipe at the heel, clean gravel backfill behind the wall face, and geogrid layers tied into the backfill on anything tall. Segmental concrete block is the most common residential system and can be built by a landscape contractor up to about four feet; above that, or wherever a driveway, slope or structure sits above the wall, an engineer's design is required by most codes and the wall becomes structural work. Poured concrete and reinforced masonry walls are used for tall cuts and tight sites, boulder walls for rural and natural-look projects, and pressure-treated timber for budget walls with a shorter life.